Edible Landscaping – How To: Overwinter Containerized Fruit Trees

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Fig trees grow well in containers where they can be kept dwarf. They can be left outdoors in mild winter climates, but need protection in any location that gets below 20 degrees F.

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When overwintering fruit trees in containers, be sure to protect the graft union. This is where the desired variety is attached to the rootstock. If the union fails, you’ll lose the variety you wanted to grow.

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Citrus trees need protection from temperatures that dip below freezing. Move them into a protected location before cold winter hits.

As more people grow edibles in their large and small yards, many are discovering the convenience and joy of growing fruits in containers. There are newer varieties available that grow in a naturally dwarf shape, making them easy candidates for container growing. Gardeners with small yards can now enjoy fruit growing like everyone else. Plus, new styles of lightweight, durable containers make growing a large tree possible and easier to move around.

While growing figs, lemons, apples, blueberries, and other fruits in containers is easier than ever before, if you live in a cold winter climate, you’ll need to protect your plants in winter. Freezing and thawing and winter minimum temperatures can cause even hardy fruits to perish. So, here’s a rundown on ways to protect your containerized fruit this winter and enjoy the fruits of your labor for years to come.

Know Your Fruit Different fruit trees have different needs and aversions to cold. Citrus shouldn’t be exposed to freezing temperatures, while temperate climate fruits such as apples can tolerate some freezing. If you live in a mild winter climate, you may be able to leave your container fruits outdoors in winter with minimal protection.

Reduce Watering and Fertilizing As fall approaches, gradually reduce watering and stop fertilizing to get your tree ready for the cold weather and shorter days.

Outdoor Protection of Fruits Protect fruits outdoors in mild winter climates by placing the trees in a protected spot against a building shielded from cold north and west winds. Wrap the tree in burlap and create a wire cylinder around the container and tree and fill it with hay, leaves, or straw to offer more insulation.

When to Bring Indoors Citrus should be brought indoors before a first frost and when the nights dip into the 30 F’s. Deciduous fruits, such as apples, blueberry, and fig, should be allowed to drop their leaves outdoors, then moved indoors soon afterward in cold climates.

Indoor Protection of Fruit Trees Place containers in an unheated, attached garage or basement where they will be exposed to cold temperatures, but the roots and tree won’t die due to severe cold. The roots of most deciduous tree fruits are hardy to 0 degrees F, but should be protected where ever the temperatures dip below 20F. If your storage area may dip down even colder than 20F, consider wrapping the tree with burlap and hay or straw as described above for added insulation.

Soil Conditions Once brought indoors, keep the soil slightly moist. Too wet and the roots will rot. Too dry, and the roots will die for lack of water.

Moving Back Outdoors Move your fruit trees back outdoors in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Many trees, such as figs, will start leafing out indoors in late winter based on their internal clock. Keep the soil slightly moist and conditions cool to slow the leaf growth until they can be moved outdoors. Once outdoors, place the trees in a partly shaded area for a few days to get accustomed to the higher light levels. Then move them into full sun.

More articles on growing fruits in containers:

Fruit Trees in Containers
Growing Fruit in Containers (PDF)

Edible Landscaping – How to: Improve Clay Soil

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Clay soil is hard to work, but loaded with nutrients. Adjusting a low pH by adding lime helps make those nutrients more readily available for plants.

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Adding organic matter in the form of leaves, hay, bark mulch, peat moss, and untreated grass clippings all help to make clay soil more workable.

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You know you have clay soil when you can take a handful and can form clay figures.

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Clay soil can be transformed in a loose, easy to work garden soil with time, patience, and persistence.

From California to Maine gardeners have to contend with clay soil. In some ways clay soil has gotten a bad rap. Yes, it does turn into bricks when dry, and when wet it’s probably best used for a facial, but it does have an upside. It holds water and nutrients well and as a horticultural friend of my says, “grows great grass”. However, for any vegetable gardener, working with clay soil takes patience and perseverance. Many a gardener has slopped through wet clay, the heavy soil sticking to their boots and tools, or needed a pick axe to turn over cracked, dry clay. But if you are able to work your clay soil, you’ll be rewarded with abundant crops.

Here are some tips on making clay soil your next best garden friend.

  • Test Your Clay – A key with any soil is to adjust the pH to the appropriate level for the crops you’re growing. For vegetables, that would be between 6.5 and 7.0. Clay is loaded with nutrients, but if the pH is too low or high, they won’t be available for your plants no matter what you do.If you’re gardening in the Southwest and a soil test calls for the addition of calcium, consider adding gypsum to your clay soil. Not only does it add calcium nutrients to your soil, gypsum helps break the bonds between clay particles and loosens the soil. However, don’t add gypsum if not called for in your soil test. Chances are your soil already has abundant amounts of calcium and adding more will cause a nutrient imbalance.
  • Add Organic Matter – Whether it be clay or sandy soil, organic matter is the key to making your soil healthier and easier to work. It doesn’t matter so much about the form of the organic matter as it does when you add it. Work in a 6- to 8-inch thick layer of coarse raw materials, such as chopped leaves, untreated grass clippings, hay, straw, peat moss or fresh manure in fall or a few months before you’re going to plant your garden. It will take that long for the soil microbes to break down the high carbon material into humus that the plants can use. Only work the organic matter into the top 6- to 12- inches of soil. Add a 2- to 3-inch thick layer of finished compost or aged manure anytime time right up to planting. This works best on clay soil that has already been amended with raw materials so it’s beginning to loosen up.Another form of organic matter that helps immensely to make clay soil more workable is a cover crop. If you have the time and patience, grow a cover crop, such as clover, winter wheat, or buckwheat, in your garden area the year before you plan on planting. Tap-rooted cover crops, such as alfalfa and fava beans, are great at breaking up clay and pulling nutrients up to the top layers of soil from the subsoil. Growing cover crops that are tilled into the soil and replanted a few times during the growing season will add loads of organic matter and allow you to better work your garden once you get started.
  • Grow Up – Some gardeners contend with clay soil by avoiding it. If you have a small garden, it might be easier to build raised beds on top of your clay soil and fill the beds with a mix of loam and compost. You’re basically creating a container on top of the soil, where you’ll be better able to successfully plant your crops right away. Not only will the soil be easier to work with, because it’s in a raised bed, you won’t be stepping on the soil and compacting it.
  • The Miracle of Mulch – One of the biggest problems with clay soil is it easily compacts. To keep it from getting too dense and to prevent the soil from cracking and drying out, add a 2- to 3-inch thick layer of organic mulch over the soil during the growing season and replenish it as needed. The organic matter provides a carpet so you won’t be packing down the soil as much when walking on it, and as the organic matter breaks down, it’s helping loosen the clay. If you aren’t growing a winter cover crop, consider covering the garden with organic matter (leaves, grass clippings, hay) all winter so the winter rains and snow don’t compact the clay soil further.
  • Go No Till – Every time you till your soil you’re introducing oxygen that accelerates the decomposition of soil organic matter. The more you turn your clay soil, the more organic matter is burned up, and the fewer advantages you’ll get from adding it. Try no-till gardening where you amend the top layers of the bed each spring, but do little or no turning of the soil. No-till gardening may slow down the warming of soils in northern gardens in spring, but in the long run it will require less work.
  • Edible Landscaping – How to: Grow Herbs from Seed

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    Basil is easy to start from seed indoors. Large trays of it will need transplanting into pots before being moved into the garden.

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    Mix and match herbs in containers for an attractive edible appearance.

    Herbs are rewarding plants to grow. Not only do they provide tasty additions to all types of foods you cook, many plants are beautiful as ornamentals and produce attractive flowers in the landscape. While the easiest way to have herb plants is to purchase them from your local garden center or on-line, you can start many herbs from seed indoors in spring. Starting with seed not only gives you a wider selection of herb varieties to grow, it’s less expensive, especially if you’re growing many plants.

    While the most common herbs to grow from seed are annual herbs such as basil and dill, you can start almost any herb from seed, given the right conditions. Here are some of the top culinary herbs to grow and some tips on starting them from seed.

    Basic Needs

    Regardless of the herb you’re growing indoors from seed, there are some basic needs they all have. For the best success, use a grow light set up so your herbs are growing under artificial lights. This will ensure short, stocky plants that are better adapted to outdoor growing. Set the lights on a timer for 14 hours a day and keep the lights 2- to 4-inches away from the tops of the herbs.

    Use seed starting potting mix when growing herb seeds. A seed starting mix is even lighter than regular potting soil and is easier for germinating seeds to poke through. Many herb seeds are tiny, so having a heavy mix makes it harder for them to sprout and more likely that they will rot before germinating.

    While clay pots are fine for growing on, it’s best to use plastic trays with small cells to start your herbs. The small cells make it easy to start many herbs all at once, and you can sow herbs with similar growth requirements near each other. They can be transplanted into larger pots as they grow. The exception is herbs that don’t like transplanting such as parsley. Start these in larger pots to reduce the number of times they are transplanted.

    Place the tray or pots in a warm room, out of direct sun. If you can apply bottom heat with a heating mat, that will speed up germination. Cover the cells with clear plastic to keep the soil moist. Once they germinate, remove the plastic and place the trays under lights.

    Light sprays of a liquid organic fertilizer will help keep your herb seedlings green and growing strong. Apply a diluted solution weekly starting a week after germination.

    Transplant your herbs once they are too large for their pots. If you planted in single cell trays, separate the herbs from each other and pot them into individual pots. Harden plants off before planting them outdoors or moving the pots outside.

    Top Herbs and How to Grow Them from Seed[#Z]

    Chives are another easy herb to grow from seed. It actually can become a weed, self-sowing readily in your garden.

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    Sage, thyme and oregano can be grown indoors as windowsill herbs for use right in the kitchen.

    Basil – One of the easiest herbs to grow from seed, sow two seeds per cell and thin to the strongest one after germination. Basil germinates as fast as 4 days from seeding in warm soil. Basil seedlings don’t like excess water, so let the pots almost dry out between waterings. Once seedlings have grown their true leaves, transplant into 2-inch diameter pots.

    Chives – An easy herb to grow, seeds self sow in the garden readily so you know it’s a quick germinator. Keep the soil evenly moist and the seeds will germinate in 10 days from sowing.

    Cilantro – Cilantro hates being transplanted. Sow seeds in pots that can be moved directly into the garden or in a larger pot outside. Soak seeds overnight in warm water, and sow 1/4 inch deep. Cilantro seeds should germinate in 7 to 10 days.

    Dill – Dill is a great herb for the beginner to grow from seed. It has big seeds, so it’s easy to handle. It grows quickly, germinating within 1 to 2 weeks of sowing the seeds.

    Parsley – Parsley seed is notoriously slow to germinate, sometimes taking up to 4 weeks. To speed it along, soak the seeds overnight in warm water and sow 1/4 inch deep in the soil. Parsley doesn’t like to be transplanted, so grow seeds in pots large enough to move outside into the garden.

    Oregano – This small-seeded herb can take weeks to germinate, so be patient. Gently press the tiny seeds into the soil and keep evenly moist. Oregano and thyme can be prone to damping off disease if the soil is kept too moist.

    Sage – Like parsley, sage is slow to germinate, sometimes taking up to 21 days. Be patient and keep the soil evenly moist.

    Thyme – Thyme seed is so small, it’s easy to mistakenly sow a bunch in a little pot. Some growers mix sand with this small seed so as to not plant too much. Gently place a few seeds in each cell or pot, and lightly press them into the soil. It may take 2 to 3 weeks for the tiny seedlings to appear. Watch out for damping off disease.

    Other stories on growing herbs:

    Herbs in a Pot
    Indoor Herb Growing
    Starting Herbs on the Windowsill.,

    A Container Veggie Garden – Garden.org

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    Many types of peppers thrive in containers.

    Now is the time to plant crops for bountiful harvests this summer and fall. Even small-space gardeners can grow enough nutritious produce to prepare a few meals, supplement your diet, and save some bucks. With a little planningand attention, container gardens can produce like mini farms.

    Almost any vessel can be used as a container, but it must have drainage holes that allow water to freely flow through the pot. Most veggies only need about 6 inches of soil depth. Trays and smaller containers work fine for lettuce, radishes, spinach, and peppers. Root crops like carrots and onions, and large plants like most tomatoes and squash, require half-barrels, grow bags, or some other large (larger than 16 inches in diameter) container. As a general rule, bigger is better for root growth and overall vigor.

    When growing veggies in containers, packaged potting mixes are typically the best choice. Using garden soil in containers is never ideal. In urban areas where there is a potential for contamination, filling a container for edibles with city dirt is out of the question. Packaged potting mixes are lightweight, moisture retentive, and well aerated. Plus they do not harbor any fungi, bacteria, insects, or weed seeds that would cause problems later.

    Where to Grow?

    Sunlight — not space — is probably the biggest limiting factor in urban environments. Without at least six hours of sun a day, it’s going to be tough to grow quality veggies. Crops need a lot of solar energy to make nutritious fruits, seeds, and leaves. Southern exposure is best, but six hours from any direction should be sufficient. To avoid leaning or uneven growth, rotate the containers weekly.

    Wind exposure is another factor to consider. To prevent desiccation and damage from the wind tunnel effect, urban gardeners should place large plants in sheltered locations. Avoid narrow alleys or any other spots where wind is funneled directly towards the plants. If the only options are exposed balconies and terraces, use wire cages or other sturdy supports to protect large plants like tomatoes, beans, peas, and squash.

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    Mix veggies and flowers for an ornamental edible garden in a pot.

    Container Veggies Need Attention

    Regular watering is crucial when you grow in containers because there’s limited soil mass for storing water. During the peak of summer heat, gardeners may need to water daily to keep plants growing at full potential. A drip irrigation system allows you to water automatically, and with a timer you can even water containers when you’re away. However, the best option for vacation watering is always a reliable neighbor. (And if they happen to be a master gardener, then your karma’s working overtime!)

    Vegetables grown in containers also need regular fertilizing. Follow the label instructions and make sure the container is well drained or plants may suffer from high salt levels due to fertilizer buildup. Some gardeners combine the two tasks and simply water with a quarter-strength fertilizer solution once a week.

    If plants don’t appear vigorous and healthy, check them closely because disease and pest infestations can quickly get out of hand. If caught early, most are easy to treat. Check the undersides of leaves for insects. Many of them can be picked off or sprayed off with a strong stream of water. Some pests require other treatments. Natural insecticides and biological controls (ladybugs, parasitic wasps, predatory midges, etc.) are very popular with home gardeners. Always read the label to make sure the product is compatible with food crops, and follow the directions carefully.

    Getting Off to a Good Start

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    Try growing grape tomatoes in a half-barrel with bamboo stakes for support.

    When selecting plants, look for vigorous young seedlings with bushy growth. Plants that are lanky or already flowering are not good choices. Check to make sure each seedling is securely anchored in the six-pack or pot, which implies a well-established root system. Dip the seedling in a bucket of water to moisten the rootball, tease out any circling roots, and plant it at the same depth it was previously growing. (Tomatoes are an exception because they can be planted with the bare stem several inches below the ground and roots will form along the stem.)

    Some crops, like lettuce, beets, and carrots, are best grown from seed. Simply follow the instructions on the packet. Be sure to thin sprouts to the recommended spacing. Thinning is a ruthless task, but fortunately most veggie sprouts can be used in salads and other dishes for an early-season treat.

    Varieties for Small Spaces

    The crops and varieties listed below are good choices for containers. Because of the rising popularity of container gardening, many more options are appearing every year. Check your local garden centers, farmers’ markets, and botanic gardens for the newest varieties.

    • Beans: ‘Bush Romano’, ‘Bush Blue Lake’, ‘Royal Burgundy’, ‘Blue Lake’
    • Carrots: ‘Danvers Half Long’, ‘Tiny Sweet’, ‘Little Finger’, ‘Thumbelina’
    • Chard: most varieties
    • Cucumbers: ‘Patio Pick’, ‘Salad Bush Hybrid’, ‘Early Pik’
    • Eggplant: ‘Slim Jim’, ‘Ichiban’, ‘Black Beauty’, ‘Mordon Midget’
    • Lettuce: leaf varieties
    • Onions: ‘Japanese Bunching’, ‘Beltsville Bunching’
    • Peppers: ‘Sweet Banana’, ‘Cayenne’, ‘Yolo Wonder’, ‘Jalapeno’, ‘Thai Hot’, ‘Keystone Resistant’
    • Spinach: most varieties
    • Squash: ‘Scallopini’, ‘Early Yellow Summer’, ‘Gold Rush’
    • Tomatoes: ‘Patio VF’, ‘Sungold’, ‘Early Girl’, ‘Sweet 100 Patio’, ‘Saladette’, ‘Tiny Tim’, ‘Pixie II’, and most determinant varieties

    For more info, check out the following NGA articles and visit EdibleLandscaping with Charlie Nardozzi.

    StartingYour Container Garden

    Moss’ Kitchen Garden Plants

    ContainerTomatoes

    A Brief History of the Potato

    [#Z]The history of the potato dates back more than 2,000 years, to the time when the Inca Indians of the South American highlands were bringing wild varieties under cultivation.

    Potatoes: The Early Years

    The early European explorers of South America brought the first potatoes home to Europe, probably between 1530 and 1550, and Ireland became the first country to adopt them wholeheartedly, in part because its cool climate is so well-suited to growing them.

    By the 1660s, the potato was firmly established in Ireland, and for the next 250 years the Irish (and people in a few other countries, too) came to depend on it.

    In the early 1700s, a colony of Presbyterian Irish who settled in New Hampshire introduced the potato to North America. Potatoes eventually became America’s most important vegetable. As in other countries, potatoes became the mainstay of the winter food supply.

    The terrible famines in Ireland in the 1840s resulted from the country’s dependence on one crop — the potato — and in the way the farmland was then distributed.

    By the early 1800s, much of the Irish countryside was owned by absentee landlords; the average Irish family had very little farmland. And on what little land they had, many families had to grow grains to pay the rent. This meant they had scant space for growing their own food. As a result, their food supply came to be based entirely on the dependable, nutritional, storable potato.

    Late Blight Fungus

    Late blight fungus was noticed in the Irish crop as early as the 1820s, but it wasn’t a serious problem until 1845. That year the blight wiped out the crop nationwide — about 900,000 acres altogether. Diseased seed potatoes that were used the following seasons resulted in two more crop failures, and that caused the tragic starvation which claimed nearly half of Ireland’s population and sent a million Irish to new homes around the world.

    The Irish still grow potatoes, but only about 10 percent of what was grown in the 1800s. Worldwide, however, the potato is still a major crop. We eat plenty of spuds year-round in the United States, and with the wide range of different colored and shaped potatoes now available, there’s been a resurgence in home-grown potatoes.

    A Brief History of Peppers

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    Peppers make the garden brighter. The glistening greens of the leaves and the rainbow of colors of the ripening peppers – red, yellow, orange, green, brown or purple – all mark the rows where peppers are growing. They’re so striking, you’ll probably want to plant peppers in a spot where they can easily be seen and appreciated by visitors. The attractive plants make everything around them look better, healthier, and tastier.

    A Taste of Peppers

    Besides their appearance, there’s another reward from peppers: They’re delicious. Sweet bell peppers go well with just about anything and are wonderful eaten right out of the garden, while the hotter varieties spice up many recipes. Some pepper varieties add color as well as flavor: pimiento strips in stuffed olives or stuffed eggs with a dusting of paprika on top, for example. (Paprika is made from dried peppers.) Stuffed peppers, pickled peppers, fried peppers – peppers fit in, deliciously, everywhere.

    Where it Began

    Prehistoric remains in Peru show that peppers existed then, and they were cultivated in Central and South America in very early times. Columbus brought them to Europe in 1493, and they were quickly adopted and cultivated. In fact, it was the Europeans that gave peppers their name. The only pepper they had known until that time was the black and white spice we still sprinkle out of our pepper shakers. When Columbus brought dried peppers back from the West Indies, Europeans said the fruit was “hotter than the pepper of the Caucasus,” the familiar table spice. The name “pepper” stuck, and we’ve been using it ever since.

    In spite of sharing the same name, our table pepper and the sweet and hot peppers we grow are not related. The black and white pepper we grind is the seeds of the plant, Piper nigrum. Our garden peppers belong to the species Capsicum. Capsicum annuum, one group of the Capsicum species, accounts for most of the varieties grown in this country. Exceptions include the Tabasco and Habanero peppers, which belong to other species.

    Cells and Lobes

    If you cut open a pepper crosswise near the stem, you’ll notice thin walls that divide the pepper into sections. These sections are called the lobes, or cells. Most seed companies describe a well-shaped sweet bell pepper as being “blocky.” The blocky shape comes from this division of the pepper into lobes, and a good, blocky pepper will have three or four lobes. The shape of blocky peppers makes them great for stuffing, slicing into pepper rings and general all-around use.

    – Garden.org

    http://garden.org/ideas/view/2838/
    By dave on September 8, 2018The penultimate raffle of the year!

    Here we go again with another Not-a-Raffle Raffle. Why is this not a regular raffle? Well, in a regular raffle, you pay for the tickets with money. But in NGA raffles, you buy your tickets with acorns. Tickets cost 5 acorns each. Don’t know what acorns are? Click here to learn about acorns, and how to get them.

    Important note: these prizes are all only available to members in the United States. I’m really sorry for those in other countries, but the complications and expense of shipping things to other countries is just too difficult and costly to arrange with the various companies. For this reason, we have made the decision to limit the contest to United States winners only. If you are outside the US, you can still participate, but if you win you will need to gift the prize to another member of your choice.
    Good luck to all participants, and now let’s talk about the prizes:[#Z]Santa Rosa Gardens is providing a $50 gift certificate to their store. Santa Rosa Gardens is a family operated mail-order business, and we grow every plant we sell. We grow and ship over 750 varieties of perennial plants, but we are also specialists in ornamental grasses, producing over 175 different varieties. Our love for plants is evident in our customer service. Bottom line…we want you to succeed in creating your style, your passion, your garden!
    [#Z]Brushwood Nursery is providing the plant Clematis ‘Taiga again’ shipped to you! Brushwood Nursery ships beautiful vines and climbers throughout the United States directly to your door. We have hundreds of different climbers available like Clematis, Climbing Roses, Passion Flowers, Honeysuckles and much more.
    [#Z]Garden Perennials is providing 3 daylilies of store’s choosing, with winner questioned about their color preferences. Garden Perennials is celebrating 35 years of offering a wide variety of perennials and specializing in daylilies. Plants are grown in northeast Nebraska, resulting in excellent hardiness.
    [#Z]Perfect Plants is providing three prizes to three different winners. Prize #1: $50 gift card for their store. Prizes #2 and #3: 3 one-gallon roses of the winners choice. Perfect Plants is a family owned and operated nursery based in North Florida. Our 35 years extensive experience began in 1980 with our father’s purchase of the land that was to become our nursery. The desire for our high standards to be able to reach more individual consumers is what began our online operations. We strive to offer a diverse selection of hand-chosen and carefully packaged plants in hopes to deliver exactly what our name suggests: Perfect Plants!
    [#Z]Hollingsworth Peonies is providing one root of peony ‘Minuet’. Hollingsworth Peonies – your peony farm, where we guarantee variety – peonies are what we do!

    This is your one stop web-site for everything about peonies. How to grow peonies, how to divide and plant, and of course your guaranteed variety source. Always American Grown, we do not resell imports.

    [#Z]Cobrahead is providing an awesome collection of tools to one winner. The winner who chooses this prize will receive CobraHead Original, a CobraHead “Mini” and a Long Handle Weeder. Three amazing tools for one winner.
    [#Z]Mary’s Garden Patch is providing 20 Ziva Paperwhite Daffodils. Ziva Paperwhites are early pure-white flowers with up to three stems per bulb. Very fragrant. For indoor forcing plant mid-October to early November for Christmas bloom. Or grow outdoors in the South where they will often bloom in December. Mary’s Garden Patch reserves the right to substitute another variety or similar gift certificate in case the listed prizes are not available at the time of the drawing. They will be shipped starting around September 20th according to your planting zone, coldest parts of the country first. Can be shipped closer to Christmas if you want. Mary’s Garden Patch specializes in top size quality fall and spring planted flower bulbs for the garden. Different varieties include tulips, daffodils, daylilies, crocus, lilies, caladiums, cannas, amaryllis, iris, hyacinths and many more – all with beautiful flowers to enhance your own home and garden, landscape or just your windowsill.
    [#Z]Victory Seed Company is providing a $25 gift certificate to their store. The Victory Seed Company is a family owned and operated, small farm-based organization working to keep rare and threatened plant varieties available to home gardeners. All of their seeds are open-pollinated, open source, non-hybrid, and not chemically treated. As an early signer of the “Safe Seed Pledge” they will never knowingly sell GMO seeds. Many of the varieties are family heirlooms, most are old standard varieties that are hard to find.
    [#Z]Mountain Crest Gardens is providing a $50 gift certificate to their store. Mountain Crest Gardens is a family owned and operated succulent nursery that was established in 1995. Their collection has grown to over 650 different varieties of hardy and soft succulents including Sempervivum (hens & chicks), Sedum, Echeveria, Crassula, Haworthia, hybrids, and more. They deliver year-round to all U.S. states and territories and offer free shipping on orders of $75 or more. Mountain Crest Gardens specializes in providing a large selection of named individual succulents, hand-picked specialty collections, and affordable wholesale plug trays with no minimum order or wholesale account requirements. They also pride themselves on exceptional customer service, so feel free to contact them if you have any questions.
    [#Z]GrowJoy is providing $50 in Reward Points that can be used just like cash at GrowJoy. Whether you get excited by new varieties or want to stick with the tried and true favorites, you’ll find it all online at GrowJoy.com. From vegetables and herbs, to annuals, perennials and succulents, we have a plant for you. Guaranteed quality, delivered right to your door.
    @dave is providing 5 winners will each get 100 acorns, all donated by an anonymous member.
    As always, the ticket buying window is open now and will close on September 20th at 7:00pm Central time. The drawing will be done and posted the following day. The first place winner gets first pick of all the prizes, and then the second winner picks, and so forth until all prizes are claimed. Important note for winners: If you are contacted as a winner and asked to choose a prize you have 24 hours to respond with your choice. If you do not respond within that time, the next placed winner will be contacted and allowed to pick.This raffle is now closed!